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Diamond Products Diamond Blades

Core Cut Diamond Blades

Diamond Products Diamond Blades

Wet and dry blades for cured concrete, green concrete, asphalt, masonry and reinforced slab - Heavy Duty Orange through Premium Black, in every common diameter and arbor.

Diamond Products Heavy Duty Orange wet cutting diamond blade
Choosing a diamond blade
What this collection covers

The full Diamond Products blade line supplied by HTS Supply, grouped by how the blade is run and what it cuts.

  • Wet blades – run with water on walk-behind, wall, table and rider saws for cured concrete, green concrete and asphalt.
  • Dry blades – high speed saws, cut-off saws and grinders where water is impractical.
  • Masonry blades – block, brick, pavers and refractory.
  • First-Cut early entry – green concrete, cut within hours of the pour.
  • Specialty – tuck point, crack and loop, joint widening, tile, ring saw and beaded wire.
Wet or dry - which blade do I need?

It is set by the saw, not by preference. A blade sold as wet-only will overheat and lose segments if it is run dry.

Wet cuts faster, runs cooler, lasts longer and controls the dust, but the saw needs a water feed.

Dry blades are built to shed heat without water. Most dry blades can also be run wet; the reverse is not true.

Cured concrete, green concrete or asphalt?

The bond is matched to how abrasive the material is, and getting it wrong is the usual cause of a blade that will not cut or wears out early.

  • Cured concrete is hard and non-abrasive, so it takes a soft bond that releases fresh diamond.
  • Green concrete and asphalt are abrasive and take a hard bond with undercut protection.
  • Heavy rebar takes a blade specified for reinforced concrete.

If the slab is a mix, tell us the aggregate and the rebar content.

What size and arbor should I order?

Three numbers identify a blade: diameter, segment thickness and arbor. A 14 in. blade listed as 14 x .125 x 1 is 14 in. across, .125 in. thick, on a 1 in. arbor.

Diameter sets the depth of cut - roughly a third of the blade. Confirm the arbor against the saw before ordering; 1 in. and 20 mm are common and are not interchangeable.

Why is my blade cutting slowly or glazing?

A glazed blade is almost always too hard a bond for the material. The diamond has polished over instead of exposing fresh edge.

Dress the blade in an abrasive material such as a concrete block to open it up. If it glazes again, the bond is wrong for the slab and a softer bond will cut and last better.

What is a First-Cut early entry blade?

Early entry blades cut green concrete within hours of the pour, before shrinkage cracking starts. They run dry in a First-Cut saw with a skid plate that holds the slab down as the blade enters.

They are matched to the aggregate hardness, so tell us the mix.

Can I run a walk-behind blade on a high speed saw?

No. Blade speed ratings are not interchangeable. A high speed or cut-off saw spins far faster than a walk-behind, and a blade run past its rated maximum RPM is a safety failure, not just a wear problem.

Check the maximum operating speed printed on the blade core against the saw's arbor speed every time.

What do you need from me to quote?

The part number or catalog number if you have it. If you do not, tell us the material being cut or ground, the machine it runs on, the size and arbor or thread, the quantity, and where it ships.

On equipment, add the power available - gas, hydraulic, 115V, 230V or three-phase - because most models are built in more than one configuration.

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